When cutting peony blossoms to bring indoors, remove as few leaves as possible from the plant. Don’t cut more than 25 percent of the flowers from one bush and avoid cutting flowers from newly planted peonies.
Deadhead annuals and perennials to encourage new flower formation.
Stake tall perennials and continue to tie annual and perennial vines to supports. Train and tie clematis stems with soft cloth to guard against breakage caused by stems blowing in the wind.
Continue to spray emerging summer-blooming lilies with anti-rodent products, if rabbits and deer have been a problem. Next year, plant fritillaries and allium bulbs next to lilies to discourage browsing.
Fertilize annuals in containers, baskets and window boxes with a quarter-strength balanced fertilizer every seven to 10 days. Always water the plants before adding liquid fertilizer.
Fertilize bulbs with a 9-9-6 slow-release fertilizer if you did not do so at planting time. Mark the spots with small stakes to repeat fertilizer application in the fall (when plants are not visible).
Continue to remove yellowing leaves of summer-flowering bulbs.
Amaryllis plants should be placed in morning sun and fertilized twice a month with a 15-30-15 liquid. Leaves will continue to grow all summer as they manufacture food for the bulb. Don’t forget to water the bulbs.
Continue to pinch off new growth of chrysanthemums, asters and late-blooming tall sedums.
Sow seeds of perennials directly into the garden this month for next year’s bloom. Mark the spots carefully.
Monitor succulent new growth for signs of aphids (puckered stunted leaves). Hose down affected plants. Don’t use strong chemicals if ladybugs are present since they are predators of aphids.
Hot, dry weather can result in increased mite activity. Symptoms include stippling of foliage. Remove affected foliage. Strong miticides will also kill beneficial mites.